While the excellent boozy cloud that is a pisco sour is reason enough to visit this neon pop-bright bustling Peruvian restaurant at the bottom of colourful ACDC Lane, it’s the ceviche bar that brings the crowds back. Perch on stools and watch the team create versions of Peru’s national dish of chilli and citrus-dressed fish that are as authentic as they come, thanks to chef Alejandro Saravia.

He’s also turning out a range of street snacks — from alpaca ragout through smoked house sausage, sweet corn cakes and spicy beef skewers — and good things from the parrilla (grill), all of which celebrate the centre of South American gastronomy to excellent effect.

A wine list heavy on Argentine hits keeps things similarly on theme, while desserts, including Peruvian panna cotta with sherry currants, need to be factored into every feast. Service keeps the mood light and drinks flowing, completing a picture of Peru in Melbourne that’s as pretty as it is a pleasure.

Must eat dish: ceviche