Potts Point locals, the inner-city set with a particular fondness for all-things Italian, would be lost without Fratelli Paradiso. There are no bookings here, so it’s a case of first in best dressed, or rather, with these energetic waiters, best behaved first served.

Slide in to a caramel leather booth seat and be guided through the chalkboard menu, then pick your glass of Italian vino and order the vitello tonnato to get the ball rolling. The pitch-perfect classic is sublimely delicate, the thin veal breaking apart at the touch of a fork, the tuna fresh, creamy and salty.

At times, it can be hard to hear yourself chew over the chattering of your closely placed neighbours, yet still this is intimate dining with a sexy appeal. Thin fashionistas order the lasagnetta, a worthy vice, and whole tables coo over the single scampi, halved and grilled, nestled on a plate of spaghetti studded with torn pieces of the perfect shellfish.

The Fiorentina, a hefty one kilogram O’Connor Black Angus steak made for sharing, comes with a perfect charred exterior and rosy centre. The more modest Rangers Valley flank, cooked perfectly and served with bagna cauda, is another pleasing Australian classic served without a fuss.

Elegance is rife here; on the plate, in the chic room with its always impressive wallpapered wall, and the people who frequent. For Sydney diners looking for reliable, excellent Italian with a vibe to match, this is indeed paradise found.

Must eat dish: lasagnetta
Instagram: @fratelliparadiso