Tucked away off the slick James Street strip in Fortitude Valley, Gerard’s Bistro has its recipe for engaging modern food with a Middle Eastern and North African-inspired accent down-pat.

A crunchy burghul cracker topped with Paroo kangaroo, scampi caviar, coal-infused hummus and black fungus is an example of the multicultural mash-up, as is coal-grilled octopus with thinly sliced green strawberries, chilli, smoked butter and almonds.

It’s all part of chef Ben Williamson’s kitchen alchemy that has kept diners flocking to the quietly situated restaurant over the past five years. With its white brickwork, chunky wood feature wall, concrete bar and comfy upholstered seating, the decor is a retro-hipster architectural marriage that still holds its own in the style stakes.

The sharing menu lists items simply from small to large. Charred lamb collar with eggplant, black cardamom puree, smoked dates and black cabbage is darkly harmonious, while the suckling pig is complemented with lots of textural contrast – raisins, barberries, macadamia – balanced by notes of fermented pumpkin, burnt butter and mint.

The inventiveness does not stop at dessert. A tangy sheep’s yoghurt sorbet is a fine foil for honeycomb with aromatic accents of rosemary and orange blossom. Service is attentive, the drinks list comprehensive and while Gerard’s has undoubtedly become one of the city’s leading bistros, it is not resting on its laurels.

Must-eat dish: Coal-grilled octopus, green strawberries, butter, almond, chilli and smoke
Instagram: @gerardsbistro