Sea urchin roe is my weakness. Polarising for some, this spiny little critter hides the most glorious, creamy, nutty swoosh of the ocean inside its shell. I love it served simply on bread.

When it’s championed on a menu, I find it impossible to resist. At Olio, the sleek new Sicilian eatery to join the clutch of restaurants on Chippendale’s Kensington Street, sea urchin roe sauce lathers tender strands of egg tagliolini. It’s simple, luxurious and one of the best pasta dishes I’ve encountered lately.

Chef Lino Sauro has been offering his spin on Sicily’s culinary delicacies at Gattopardo in Singapore for about a decade, and Olio marks his first local foray. Sicilian cuisine bears the hallmarks of its multicultural history, and Sauro uses seafood, saffron, fennel and couscous in skilful ways.

Olio, which means oil in Italian, runs like a well-oiled machine. Situated on the second floor of the redeveloped Old Rum Store, it’s light, spacious and sophisticated with blond woods, exposed bricks, a lick of lime green on the ceiling and a rooftop terrace and bar.

Starters such as saffron arancini, goat’s cheese mousse and citrus-glazed octopus set the languid mood. Soft, sweet, grilled calamari, meanwhile, benefits from a tomato and fennel salad.

In terms of more substantial fare, snapper, clams, mussels and prawns come in a transporting tomato stew. And even more adventurous dishes, such as tea-smoked lamb rump with eggplant, blueberries and anchovy, manifest in a marvellous mouthful.

To finish, the delightful surprise of a lemon sorbet hidden inside a not-so-traditional deconstructed ricotta cheesecake brings a wry smile.

Olio’s waitstaff are sprightly and go above and beyond, while the drinks lists spans classic aperitifs and inventive Sicilian wines. Olio just flows.