A young chef who’s setting a new agenda for seafood Down Under, by not only championing under-utilised species, but covering new ground through dry-ageing, cooking techniques and flavour combinations. The fact is there is no restaurant like Saint Peter in Australia – perhaps the planet – and it’s all thanks to the culinary foresight of young chef Josh Niland, who shows the type of restraint usually seen by chefs much more senior.

Niland is a former pupil of one our best fish cooks, Stephen Hodges, and although you can see the classic Hodges footprint, Niland is treading new ground too. Housed in a slender bistro-style dining room with sandstone walls and banquettes, it doesn’t take many guests to make it feel boisterously busy – especially during the brunch trade. But Saint Peter is less about refined silver service and more focused on the denizen of the deep blue. Essentially, the fish. Start with the day’s selection of oysters offered with a supplement of Shark Bay Scampi roe or Pambula Sea Urchin. Hand-filleted Yamba sardines simply come seasoned and drizzled in olive oil. Fried Shoalhaven Whitebait gets a crispy salt and pepperberry touch. Pine mushrooms and parsley add beautiful depth to Evan’s Head line-caught Hapuka, then the deep, almost bacon-like musings of 12-day aged Kingfish gets a refreshing kiss from pear and macadamia.

Saint Peter may be all about the fish, but don’t forget to order the lemon tart, it’s hands down the best in Sydney.

Must eat dish: Fish and chips
Instagram: @saintpeterpaddo