Love is a funny thing. As hard as you try, you can’t force it. There is a lot to admire about Sasaki, the new Japanese eatery hidden in a CBD laneway. Traditional Japanese curtains reveal a tiny room where considered dishes are served that capture a little piece of Shimane province in regional Japan.

Chef and owner Yu Sasaki (who also owns cafe Cre Asion next door) takes inspiration from the cooking prowess of his mother, while featuring the wooden cutlery hand-carved by his father.

The room is decidedly beautiful, with a high-end homewares feel. Sasaki has considered every detail – the Tasmanian oak bar, textural ceramic dishes and handmade sake bottles.

It’s tranquil, almost too quiet. The staff are respectful, but although the food is quietly refined, it is missing a bit of sugar and spice.

A crunchy, simple salad of cabbage, persimmon and walnuts in a tofu dressing is fine. Roast duck breast served in blushing slivers with soy-braised leeks is better. But clams are slightly overcooked and are gritty, though the shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) sauce is a delight.

More satisfying is the classic egg custard and crab (chawanmushi), a silky dream to consume, while miso soup is both delicate and warming.

Although beautiful, desserts sometimes miss a beat. Sweet potato between potato crisps is interesting. Slices of bright raspberry fig in yukou refreshes, while complimentary white peach sorbet and yoghurt provides the lively note we’d been yearning for.

Sasaki’s simplicity is striking. But though considered, the food could benefit from more energy. I really want to fall in love with Sasaki, but for now we’re just friends. But with a promising future, perhaps more than a friendship will blossom.