Sixpenny, Sydney: the former corner store that put Stanmore on the map

Sixpenny, Sydney

Our national reviewer, Anthony Huckstep, wants you to get out of the Sydney CBD and into the 'burbs - Sixpenny is worth it.

There are few more impressive traits in food than bravery, when of course, the result forces one to put down the cutlery for a moment and revel in its majesty. A few years ago two young gun chefs, James Parry and Daniel Puskas, chanced their arm to bring sophistication to the suburbs. Sure, Stanmore didn’t know what hit it, but neither did the rest of Sydney. The former corner store was converted into a somewhat mid-century Scandonavian swagger with an Australian sentiment. Bare warm wooden tables, olive green walls, framed native flora and a kitch drinks station at its centre create a natural stillness. As if paused in a moment of time. There is also a sense of transparency and honesty, but an intention of excellence at every step. Bravery is an understatement, but that ethos didn’t stop at the selection of a site or development of the site. It is, in fact, the homage to local and native ingredients and the delivery of each dish with a dissertation by the chef that made it that sets Sixpenny apart. It’s a lesson in the sophistication of simplicity where single ingredients, often shrouded or enveloped by others, are given their time in the spotlight by guests who unravel each dish with joy. Flecks of crab with milky macadamia, in-season potato with house-made mustard, nettles and soft, opaque flathead, slivers of apple coating a sticky pork jowl or radicchio leaves adding an edge to smoked duck breast.  Sixpenny may well appear on the Australian culinary map as one of the originators of the new wave of Australian dining – where simplicity and seasonality speak as one on the plate. It’s the future of dining, right now. So perhaps it’s time to get out of the CBD and explore it for yourself.
Tel: 02 9572 6666

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83 Percival Rd Stanmore NSW 2048

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