A Swan River aspect, floor to ceiling windows, framing a burnished orange sunset; Wildflower, the signature restaurant atop COMO The Treasury has that certain something. The upscale vibe of a hotel with a serious price tag; where expense accounts burn and out-of-towners dip into the promise of the West Australian larder.

To be honest, when the concept behind Wildflower was first aired: a menu inspired by the six seasons of the Noongar calendar, European technique and the best of West Australian produce, I was lukewarm. Was this tick box dining for affluent travellers and the destination diner? But the word was good; the reviews as burnished as that Western sunset.

A lack of pretension immediately strikes me, triple cooked roasties and kos hearts as sides would play well at the bar alone, drink at hand.  The room is relaxed. Too relaxed perhaps. “That’s a fine beard” comes the opener from the guy at the next table. His wife agrees. They tell us that the rooms here are simply gorgeous. I take my car keys off the table.

Generally, if bread is an event it’s a good omen. A few strands of West Australian wheat adorn the plate, freshly whipped butter topped with sweet macadamia crumb to the side of warm bread. If ever a dish was designed to be instagrammed, it’s this.

Marron, endemic to the southwest, plays well in the eastern states, but here, seeing it so often, it’s got to be good. And it is. Fresh, plump and sweet; river greens, salted radish and sea parsley all adding a herbal, salty edge. Brown butter emulsion brings it together;  accomplished and elegant the key words here. But the entrée standout an ever so generous Shark Bay blue swimmer crab, with preserved daikon, eucalyptus and finger limes. A perfect example of Far East meets west.

Moving from entrée to main, it’s a a distinctly more European bent with the Wagin duck and Arkady lamb. Two great WA raised proteins, thoughtfully prepared; but I’m still thinking about the crab. Wildflower honey custard. It’s got all the elements I love. There’s rubbernecking from all sides as it’s brought to the table; satisfying my need to be seen to make a good choice. Sandalwood brittle, dehydrated jersey milk custard and bitter pollen syrup, there’s a comforting mix of childhood memories with a fine dining edge. Textural and moreish, it’s definite scrape the bowl territory.

So, tick box dining? Not a bit. Jed Gerrard walks the line of respectful menu, impeccable technique and innovation masterfully. Destination dining? Well, if there was ever an excuse for a city staycation, then this it.