Unsigned and a sod to find, but indefatigable imbibers will find that perseverance pays off. Upon exiting the lift and entering this well-heeled watering hole, you’ll be asked to pick a fruit, any fruit. Why? So that the crafty bartender can concoct a cocktail exactly to your tastes, duh. (Naturally you can order from the menu too, but why would you want to?) Plus there’s an outdoor terrace for twinkly after-dark quaffs. 3/F, Bulls Bldg / 7-13-13 Minami-Aoyama / Minato-ku / +81 3 5467 3977 / from 6pm daily

Hotplate pyrotechnics go gangbusters in this 150-year-old house gussied up in marine mosaics, lacquered woods and deco lilts. The marble-ous melt-in-the-mouth black Wagyu steaks are the name of the game here, flipped in front of your very eyes and perfectly plated – after all, this is Japan – to your suit your picky palate. And whatever you do, don’t forget dessert, which is served in a separate, old-school salon. 5/F / 5-10-1 Jingumae / Shibuya-ku / +81 3 5467 5252 / lunch & dinner daily / ukai.co.jp

Formal private dining or interactive counter, whichever way you swing, a flawless kaiseki education awaits. This three-Michy’d, black n’ blond wood beaut is discreet even by Japanese standards. Innovative and unparalleled, chef Hideki Ishikawa elevates even humble rice to sublime new heights, and will even make you a takeaway onigiri for tomorrow’s brekkie. Plus almost all the scrummy sake shares the same provenance as itamae. There must have been something in the water. Takamura Bldg / 5-37 Kagurazaka / Shinjuku-ku / +81 3 5225 0173 / dinner Mon-Sat / kagurazaka-ishikawa.co.jp

Chef Keiji Nakazawa’s cult 35-dish Edomae-style omakase menu pairs heavenly fish with microbrew sake at an old-school 10-seat counter, presented with more precision than you’ll find in deadly fugu preparation. For lunch, the only option is bara chirashi; only 20 are made daily with all the same ingredients but diced dinkier, but it’s a pants-down absolute steal. Go early. The real deal. 1-11 Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku / +81 3 3351 6387 / lunch Mon, Wed & Fri, dinner Mon-Sat

This iconic centenarian frying prawns like they used to do might be a tad out of the way, but trust us, it’s a diamond in the rough n’ ready nabe and well worth the wander. Just part the weathered timber doors, duck beneath the noren, enter the atmossy, stone-floored dining room and you’ll soon see why. Choose from the I, Ro, or Ha sets to vary the combo of crispy shrimp tempura. Excellent eel and veggies too. 1-9-2 Nihonzutsumi / Taito-ku / +81 3 3872 4886 / lunch & dinner Thu-Tue / doteno-iseya.com

Book ahead to have a cuppa in this zen-sational C.19th tearoom, smack bang in the midst of verdant Happo-en. In true Nippon style, there’s not a mug in sight. Instead, your very own tea lady will guide you through all the etiquette of a traditional chaa ceremony. There’s a little more to tea drinking decorum it than sticking your pinky in the air, don’t you know. Chasitsu Muan / 1-1-1 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku / +81 3 3441 7888 / 11am-4pm Mon-Fri / res essential / happo-en.com

If rising before the sun to eat raw fish is your idea of fun, you might first consider therapy. If that fails, check the ever-changing access rules for the tuna auctions and dive right in. Ogling two macho latex-clad chaps tackle a fish twice their size is something that you’ll never forget. Worked up an appetite? Take flip-fresh nigiri at iconic Sushi Dai, or Daiwa Sushi, or cab to Hotel New Otani for croissants. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku / +81 3 3542 1111 / from 5am daily / tsukiji-market.or.jp

Why, there’s nothing quite like messing about on the river aboard a tricked-out yakatabune, tucking into battered and fried viands and cranking up the karaoke while drifting past Tokyo in all her neon glory, right? Right. So what are you waiting for, hop on. Most boats only cater for groups of 20 or more, but Funasei has a monthly couples’ cruise with tempura supper. For full details see website / advance res essential / +81 3 5479 2731 / funasei.com

The mystery of markets revealed, plus insight into the Japanese kitchen. Upskill your bento basics or learn how to transform tofu into ambrosia with enlightened yankpat Elizabeth Andoh, or discover where those in the know stock up on ingreds on Yukari Sakamoto’s private market tour. For full details see website / advance res essential / tasteofculture.com

Go back to the classroom with the maestros from Mutsukari, who’ll share their technical wizardry with you one-on-one. Classes are fully customisable – it’s up to you what you want to learn – or you can choose from the a la carte options, which include a culinary boot camp, vegetarian and vegan cooking methods and pretty party food. All you need to master the art of washoku, hai. For full details see website / advance res essential / +81 3 5568 6266 / hachikari.com