In Melbourne, footy players past and present owning pubs, clubs, cafés and restaurants ain’t new. But a fresh venue to the pack is South Melbourne’s Albion, its team of owners including inked-up former Collingwood champ Dane Swan and ex-rugby players Robbie Kearns and Danny Williams.

The renovated venue – once The Motel nightclub – was just 10 days from opening in October 2015 when it was deliberately torched by its builder. While the heritage-listed 1869 facade was saved, two-thirds of the pub had to be torn down and rebuilt.

But in February, the Albion returned as a striking three-level space crowned with a knockout rooftop. A modern front bar occupies the ground level, with a plush lounge one floor up, but the roof with its city views, booths and timber, brass and greenery is where it’s at.

While Swanny isn’t pulling beers this sunny Saturday, it’s a Magpies game day so several of the black-and-white army are stopping by – a family group here, a few lads enjoying a burger there.

The menu skews more global than your typical pub offering, running from bar snacks to more elaborate plates. One minute you’re chopsticking through dumplings plump with pork, celery and vermicelli in a bold ginger-ponzu sauce, the next you’re slicing thick cuts of pork belly braised in cider you can properly taste, artfully arranged on a plate with fat seared scallops and a punchy apple-brandy sauce.

Bigger plates also extend to a dry-aged short loin, blushing to medium and well rested, keeping good company with roast potatoes and a crunchy witlof and fennel salad.

To drink, there’s a killer cocktail list and espresso martinis on tap to get the party started.

The Albion isn’t your average corner boozer. It’s sprawling and buzzing, with upmarket food and a fit-out to match. Swan in for a look.