Richmond isn’t just another footymad Melbourne suburb – its thriving food scene has much more to offer than a pie and a beer at the MCG.

Vietnamese restaurant Hanoi Hannah New Quarter and Japanese joints Future Future and Eazy Peazy recently moved to the area, and now Luke Kennedy (of Prahran’s Oscar Cooper and formerly South Yarra’s Maya Tequila Bar) and his colleagues have opened Attria Wine Bar in the space where Belles Hot Chicken once roosted.

Attria balances luxury and laidback vibes with friendly, unflappable service in a smart space furnished  with a Caesar stone-topped island bar, terrazzo floor and Burgundy colour palette. The globetrotting wine list keeps things interesting, with an ever-changing by-the-glass offering, weekly specials and a 400-strong, Australian-leaning bottle collection lining the shelves around the 65-seater and the walk-in cellar out back.

Chef Michael Butler (who came over from Oscar Cooper) uses Mediterranean leaning share plates to net hungry punters such as grilled sardines stuffed with fiery ’nduja and served with salsa verde. Spanner crab roll puts an Asian spin on the US creation, the tasty sweet strands tousled with creamy aïoli and crunchy water chestnuts stacked in a grill-branded Japanese milk bun. It’s delicious. Gnocchi is tumbled sparingly with a rotating variety of ragù (oxtail on our visit), while cinnamon-crusted ricotta dumplings drenched in a sticky chocolate sauce make the case for staying on for dessert.

The late-night supper menu is a drawcard, sharing Oscar Cooper’s famed jaffles and footy favourite party pies.

Attria has the odd shortcoming – at a wine bar, surely the wines should be poured at the table – but it’s an appealing arrival on Swan Street’s culinary landscape with its inviting wines and snacks that’ll answer any meat pie hankerings.