Restaurants weren’t always about the chef. There was a time when the main attraction was the maître d’. Their name was often above the door and they welcomed you into their restaurant. It was their show. Stepping into Bar Clementine is a little like this.

Owner and host Eric Morris, aka Enrique Mendoza, formerly pouring at Porteño and Bloodwood, welcomes you into this small, smart Art Deco space with a big smile and genteel warmth and, while the venue is pleasingly casual, he’s dressed sharper than a draftsman’s pencil, with groomed moustache to boot. He clearly loves his  job and his splendid sense of hospitality buoys the restaurant. The corner terrace is transfromed within, where a quaint sit-at marble-top bar dominates the room, lined by banquettes and works by local artist Connor Keighran.

It successfully blurs the line between bar and restaurant. Chef Craig Gray’s menu of European bistro classics is nicely pitched to partner a fun wine list that offers a snapshot of local winemaking circa 2019, while the cocktails are a drawcard on their own.

The dishes are all beautifully executed, but two stand-outs epitomise what Morris and the teamset out to achieve here. Spaghetti carbonara is a toothsome joy, each bite filled with pecorino punch. It’s served vegetarian, but you can add a slab of noix de jambon for good measure.

Then there’s the steak frites, hands down one of the best in town. And it’s only $24. Flank is charred on the outside and blushing pink on the inner and sits in a puddle of devil’s sauce tangy with Worcestershire, mustard and cayenne alongside crisp shoestring fries. At $45, the four-course tasting menu is equally easy on the wallet.

An array of charcuterie and cheese platters completes the bistro picture. It’s utterly charming, and with food this good served with old-school wit there should be queues out the door.