What’s your favourite CBD building? Mine? A toss-up between the art-deco delights of the Manchester Unity Building and the gothic glory of the Forum Theatre.

Who needs water views when you can gaze at the latter’s growling gargoyles and twisty spires, drink in hand, from the new rooftop bar at The Duke of Wellington, the city’s oldest pub? Unveiled last year, the space replaces the Dutchess steakhouse, but happily its covetable bouncy booths have been retained for cosy catch-ups. Elsewhere, the retractable roof allows punters to enjoy or escape the weather.

Busiest times here are TGIF knock-off drinks and before and after MCG footy games, with some very decent pub grub on mop-up duty, and some dishes dipping a lid to local legends like the ACDC Lane chicken burger and The Warney pulled-pork bun.

Top of the pops are the tostadas, two bites of squeaky-fresh prawn and corn chips with avocado and a zingy corn salsa. Counter these with a creamy hit of scallops, just cooked and served in their shell doused in a rich hollandaise with a tarragon crumb.

Sharing is caring with a cheese or charcuterie plate loaded with great local produce, or ditch the keto with the chicken parma burger. It combines two pub loves with a thick slice of crumbed chook crowned with passata and parmesan and jammed in a brioche bun. Continue the mash-ups with the lasagne croquettes – bites of the favourite pasta dish in a shattery shell of garlic breadcrumbs.

Drink up with local crafties on tap and mainly Aussie wines by the bottle or 150ml or 250ml glasses. Cocktails swing from classic – martinis and whisky sours – to exotic concoctions like the Fireside: vodka, maple syrup, grapefruit juice, salt and rosemary.

Who says you can’t teach an old pub new tricks?