Named after the native African tree, Jackalberry is the new bar in the Hyatt Regency in Sydney, and it offers an interesting menu from a variety of cuisines from all around the world.
The restaurant set-up has an African antique shop feel, full of African masks, memorabilia and jungle-print wallpaper.
The menu gives me the impression that we are about to embark on a voyage around the world in 80 days. There are dishes from Australia, Africa, Spain, Morocco, Italy and Argentina, just to name a few. How exciting!

Our journey begins in Argentina, with empanadas. The pastry isn’t traditional, but instead a puffy, buttery version, which actually works as it is much lighter. The beef filling is slightly spicy but missing the complexity of South American flavours, and they’re also served with an unusual sour cream with an abundance of raw garlic, it’s too much.
I then make my way to Japan, with tempura prawns coated in a light and crispy batter and served with lightly curried Kewpie mayonnaise, a beautiful little sunomono salad of soy pickled cucumber ribbons topped with sesame. The next stop is Norway, where I sample some salt cod croquettes with a golden crust. The soft and well-balanced salted cod and potato interior are served with a dollop of dill tartare sauce and that’s where it should have stopped. But it was also presented with preserved lemon and cumquat, woody samphire and sea grapes. For me, it’s a strange combination of flavours.

Then I travel to Iran, with Persian-style lamb koftas. These are juicy and flavoursome, but again, the intense flavour of raw garlic takes over the sauce, in this dish it’s yoghurt and spinach. The rice, which is mixed with walnuts, raisins and hardly any saffron, is quite bland. Onto China, with sheng jian bao, or pan- fried pork buns, which are thick and heavy on my plate, with very little pork filling. They’re served with black vinegar, and are my least favourite so far.
My final destination on this culinary world trip is Switzerland, not for dessert but cheese. Tête de Moine is served traditionally, shaved with pickled whole walnuts, poached pear in red wine (which are overcooked in this case), honeycomb, which I find far too sweet, and store-bought bread sticks with cumin – not impressed.
The verdict
Unfortunately I travelled premium economy rather than business class. The service was great and the food was good, but not amazing. I may have travelled the world but didn’t really experience any of the countries I visited.
Best seat in the house
If you’re ordering a few dishes to share, the marble oval table with the booth seats is the best.
Best drink
With eight cocktails from eight different destinations, I suggest you try the ‘Touch of France’, which has Hennessy, Suze, Lillet White, chocolate bitter and bitter orange.

Date night
Go for the whole package and book a room at the Hyatt Regency. Head to Jackalberry for a cocktail and few bites, then finish on the rooftop bar Zephyr for a nightcap.
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