Part of the many-zeroes, multi-year renovation of Lygon Street’s historic King and Godfree store, Johnny’s Green Room is a rooftop party to which all of Carlton is invited.

With a backdrop of one of the jaw-droppingly best views of central Melbourne across Lygon’s leafy treetops, the expansive space attracts the new-wave Carlton Crew – the late twentysomethings through to early 50s of the affluent inner north – here for eats with beats, field-blend vino on tap and cool crafties in the sun.

Named after a notorious all-night pool hall and diner that attracted the original Carlton Crew gangsters and other members of the cash economy, all drawn to its 24-hour licence, Johnny’s nods to its past, but with its multicoloured outdoor furniture and orange umbrellas it has taken on a decidedly beachy clubhouse vibe.

A dozen boys behind the bar are shaking and stirring and making innovative beer-splashed spritzes, strawberry gins and tonic and jugs of Pimm’s upgraded with amaro and blood orange.

Wines nod to both theme – there’s a good line in Italian varieties – and trend, while a short carte that includes salumi and cheese platters, burgers and fries is on offer from the kitchen in the deli below. Hefty pork and veal meatballs are good, if under-seasoned, but would be much better if they were served with bread to sop up the sugo they come swimming in.

And it’s somewhat fitting gangsters used to hang out here, for the thin, gristly and oily veal cotoletta served with an undressed, tired slaw is a crime against food.

So come for the sips but skip the snacks. Hopefully by the time the last piece in the K & G puzzle – Agostino Wine Bar – opens in a few months the kitchen will be firing. For now, it’s enough just to drink in that view.