I know it’s the ultimate in First World problems and, yes, that is the world’s tiniest violin you hear playing, but winter can be a trying time to be a food critic. During these cold months, chefs seem to lose their collective minds over Tuber melanosporum . It turns up in beer, bubbles and burger form, over seafood and steak, with neither pulled pork nor paella – or ice-cream, for that matter – safe from being shaved over by an overzealous cook.

Pointless Truffle Overload syndrome is real. I reckon there are just two ideal ways to savour the heady, earthy and heavenly scent of black truffle – shaved  over silken scrambled eggs or a bowl of buttery tagliatelle – that is, until I popped into Lord Lygon.

This low-key wine bar and shop in the schmick new Zagame’s House hotel comes with some serious pedigree, with Vue de Monde alumni looking after the food (chef Chris Bonello) and wine.

Marcus Radny has pulled together an interesting selection of worldly drops that tend to be both natural and delicious – not always cosy bedfellows – available at pretty keen takeaway prices.

For those sticking around, the serious cheese and charcuterie cabinet is the most obvious place to get your sip and snack on, but there are also eclectic bites – terrific beef Burgundy puffs, fluffy pork bao and sticky duck san choy bau – and plates such as braised lamb with spätzle for bigger hungers.

But it’s the $16 toastie of the day that proves the game-changer, redeeming 100 misuses of truffle. This buttery Vegemite, camembert and Manjimup truffle number was bang-on as is – all salty, creamy, heady crunch – but with a glass of spicy, earthy Central Otago pinot alongside? Mind blown.

With Carlton Wine Room down the other end, Lygon Street is now bookended by truly great grape juice.

Thankfully, not even for jaded critics is Too Many Good Wine Bars syndrome a thing.