While we laud restaurants for cultural sensitivity, sustainability, and the way they make us feel as diners – that’s to say worthy – we don’t tend to do the same for our pubs. We give them the thumbs up, and a seal of approval, but often they don’t break the big scores; don’t generate the column inches. But our suburban pubs, by my reckoning, offer more than we give them credit for, real social value.

The Quarter Acre Hotel, a relative newcomer to Applecross, is a case in point. Bright, open-plan and full of modern design cues, its initial draw wasn’t to prove some social thesis, but to get a look at a project from two of Perth’s hospitality stalwarts: Clint Nolan and Miles Hull. Between them they’ve racked up the now-late Harvest, Sneaky Tony’s, Henry Summer, Alabama Song, the Alex Hotel, Shadow Wine Bar and more. It’s what we call form.

An unashamed Aussie pub menu with no Brit-gastro-pub pretensions is what we find. We’re talking prawns, lamb, beef and chook, presented as a patchwork of Aussie heritage, with elements of European and Asian culture running through the dishes. There’s no overt signalling of provenance on every dish, good pricing and solid portions; the foundations of a local.

A simple chicken parmi is worth the trip alone. The chook is succulent, its coating crisp, golden and well seasoned. It’s on good terms with the grill, the cheese just as it should be. I often define parmis by criminal attempts I’ve witnessed over the years, but this is perhaps the positive standard from here on in. Thin-cut chips and a fennel slaw ensure there aren’t too much to distract from the main event.

There are prawns and a piquant chilli sauce, the skewers molten from the grill; top-notch tacos, albeit no surprise here, given that many most associate Nolan with La Cholita. A generous serve of lamb rump ­– perfectly pink – with green beans, preserved lemon, big fat olives and feta, is one for those who lean heavily towards the Hellenic. It’s a real standout.

But the art of a good pub isn’t just about food. It’s about the drinks, which here are interesting enough for the craft focused, while having something for those that are a little bit more mainstream in their tastes. And it’s about a sense of conviviality; a welcome beyond  “what can I get you?”

Returning time and again, each visit confirms that they’re taking care of the basics. A bit of chat, some local recommendations beyond their own quarter acre of hospo real estate, and an atmosphere that’s inclusive. There are parents’ groups on a midweek afternoon, seniors bagging the choice tables, and a Saturday mix of kids in the sandpit and millennials on a first stop. More than just a suburban local, you could say The Quarter Acre Hotel is the blueprint for the modern Australian pub.