There’s David Blackmore wagyu bresaola and Mr Cannubi mortadella from Ballarat’s excellent Salt Kitchen alongside fresh housemade ricotta and 24-month cheddar from Pyengana. There’s the world’s best tinned fish and $300 worth of caviar to spoon onto blini with crème fraîche and your pinkie up.

There are delicate cucumber finger sandwiches and Baker Bleu bread on which to spread Lescure butter, and barrel-aged Negronis and Manhattans and Martinis finished tableside. There’s ample staff, the cutlery is hefty, the napkins linen, the bill inevitably big and better if picked up by the boss.

But the real giveaway that Neil Perry’s fingerprints are all over R Bar, the reborn lobby bar at Crown Towers, is that the cheeseburger is a knockout. A perfectly seasoned pink patty with a spot-on ratio of meat to crunchy bun comes sandwiched between two slices of melted cheese with mustard and a generous amount of properly sharp pickles. This is the Rockpool burger 2.0 and it alone is worth a visit to this plush, hidden-in-plain-sight bar that’s as perfect for a late-night assignation in the velour booths out back as it is an expense-account breakfast out front.

That mortadella also turns up draped over bar snack du jour, gnocchi fritto,the fluffy little pastry served warm with a drizzle of olive oil. The buttery pastry that surrounds nicely spiced sausage rolls is an equally compelling partner to a Rockpool Pilsner.

Hefty sandwiches take care of lunchtime hungers, not least of which is the Godmother, a meat-lover’s feast of various cuts on thickly buttered house-made ciabatta with cucumber and lettuce finished with a squirt of hot sauce. The tuna, with pickled guindillas and Russian salad, is also mighty fine.

Shaking, pouring and putting Perry’s produce-first philosophy on the plate, R Bar makes a compelling case for first-class lobby sips and snacks.