Ian Curley does a mighty fine version at Kirk’s. It’s seen in posh wagyu form at Japanese grill restaurant Niku Ou and comes spiked with black pudding at Footscray’s Vic Hotel. Spicy, crunchy, rich and gooey – no matter what form it takes, a Scotch egg is, without doubt, the world’s greatest bar snack (judge’s decision, no correspondence etc).

At Westwood, chef Rhys Bennett puts his heritage and high-end Dinner by Heston training into his version, swapping the sausage for kedgeree, the smoked fish and curried rice dish beloved by Brits for breakfast. Smoky, salty and with a touch of curry heat,  it’s a clever take on a classic that’s all the better for the reimagining.

Michael and Monica Underwood last year took over what was natural-wine bar Clever Polly’s and have continued its same drop-in-for-a-drink, stay-for-a-bite vibe. Michael takes care of the former, with a small blackboard list of worldly, interesting and very good sipping from next-gen makers (also available to go), while one-man-band Bennett turns out his quietly excellent Brit-leaning snackheavy menu from the open kitchen.

Like pickled eggs and jellied eel, they won’t be to everyone’s taste, but I love Bennett’s dogged determination in serving devilled duck hearts as a snack here. And fortune favours the brave, for under a sticky Worcestershire glaze they’re surprisingly mild and moreish.

Caramelised oatcakes filled with cheddar custard and topped with a blizzard of cheese offer an easier win, as do the incredible vinegar-splashed chips that come with crisp-battered fish and  mushy peas, punchy tartare and a Wally – London slang for a gherkin. Rice pudding in brûlée form updates the British school dinner dessert with class.

Nailing the great eats and drinks at a great price brief – with added kippers and coffee by day – Westwood is a low-key Brit pop hit of a local that’s not just for local people.