Ramping up wharf fare is Monstera, the new cafe down on Mosman Bay Wharf. This little open plan cafe has moved into the space vacated by Cafe Moby.

A new cafe means a new design. Here the refit channels trendy minimalism in the way that many cafes favour. There’s a tiled counter, bespoke blond Victorian ash benches, stools and tables from furniture maker Telegraph Rd, pops of black hardware and, right at the end, where the best tables are, floor to ceiling glass framing the knockout water views.

The cafe’s name comes from the greenery above where a small, rowing boat has been filled with trailing foliage and one of those “in” potted plants, owner Steven Chrun explains.

Monstera is Chrun’s second north shore wharf side cafe. Head around the Harbour to Kirribilli and you’ll find Celsius Coffee Co, the intimate waterfront venue he opened three years ago.

This commuter-turned-cafe-owner now finds himself on the other side of the counter serving Hitman blend coffee from Canberra roasters Ona.

The wake up call came five years ago. “I was a financial adviser wondering what I was doing working in an office,” he said. “Now I love interacting with customers.”

Monstera has more than award-winning coffee, a funky fit-out, an oversized plant pot and water views. The drawcard is its menu. Once again Chrun has turned to Jordan Hajek, the head chef who transformed Celsius’ food into a vibrant all-day brunch menu. Hajek’s ramped up choices for Mosman showcase a similar formula. Keep it small, keep it fresh and keep it interesting.

“Our seasonal menu delivers high quality fresh produce grown and harvested locally,” Chrun says.

Celsius’ most popular dish has moved bays too. The signature peanut butter waffles beloved by the social media set has been rejigged for Mosman. The waffles keep the fresh berries, maple syrup and honeycomb but the twist is swapping peanut butter for a light and lemony mascarpone.

Avo on sourdough toast makes two guest appearances. Something Light teams it with heirloom tomatoes, goat’s curd and chilli lime with toasted almonds. Its counterpart, Seriously Green, turns out to be seriously good. This fancypants avo, toast and poached egg combo is a vitamin C blast of greenery with asparagus, sauteed kale and lime-spiked avocado. A sprinkle of seeds, nuts and black salt add extra flavour.

Lunch time eats travel along the burger and hotdog route, but with a difference. The double smoked pork belly hotdog picks up on Japanese flavours with fresh wasabi leaves and pickled daikon.

A new winter menu will have a version of eggs Benedict. One ingredient, ‘nduja, the spicy salami paste that’s all the rage in London, will be used in a breakfast dish.

One current dish pushes the boat out. Mosman customers can try spiced wallaby mince with pomegranate, fried egg, and hummus on sourdough.