There’s nothing quite like the feeling you get when you stumble upon a neighbourhood gem like Hank’s Cafe and Bagelry in Armadale.

Opposite Toorak station and tucked in among a row of design studios, boutiques and petite eateries, Hank’s manages to feel both established and fresh. This is in part due to the heritage stained-glass windows at the front contrasting with blue steel accents, blonde timber and subway tiles, giving a subtle nod to the New York-style bagels on offer.

Named after the Breaking Bad character Hank Schrader, Hank’s is owned by Beatty Group (the team behind the nearby locals’ favourite Mammoth Cafe and Elsternwick’s Copycat Bar & Restaurant).

Nick Beerens, the co-owner and co-founder of Beatty Group, had wanted to open a bagelry since visiting New York as an 18 year old.

“A piece of my heart lies in New York, and every time I’m there I find myself heading for one of the city’s iconic bagel shops, which serve them fresh from the oven with a range of delicious fillings,” he says.

“I wanted to have that same experience in Melbourne and have had my eye on the Armadale space for quite some time now. When it came up, I jumped at the chance to make this dream a reality.”

It’s best to come to Hank’s on a sunny day, with a big appetite and a couple of friends. Why? Because the majority of the seating is al fresco, and the bagels (sourced from iconic Elsternwick institution Savion) are big but once cut in half and shared, are a great way to sample more of the menu.

It’s a “choose your own adventure” beginning, starting with one of six bagels (plain, seeded, onion, challah, gluten-free or blueberry), before deciding which of the 10+ filling combinations to go for.

The menu features classics like beetroot and gin-cured salmon with fresh herbs, red onion and cream cheese, as well as pastrami, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, pickles and swiss cheese, but my companions loved the rich flavours of the lamb and rosemary meatloaf with a vibrant pistachio pesto and provolone, as well as the succulent poached chicken loaded with mayo, celery, tarragon and crispy chicken skin.

Sides can be added (think pickles, crisps or crinkle-cut hot chips) and in what feels like a very New York touch, filter coffee with any bagel is only $2.

It’s worth saving space for the house-made “PB & J whoopie pie” cookies (thick chocolate cookies sandwiched together with peanut butter cream icing) or a rugged “chunky chocolate cookie” studded with dark, milk and white chocolate chips, buds and chunks.

And if sweet drinks are your thing, you can take your pick from three creamy American-style shakes or even a maple iced latte. All in all, Hank’s, like their bagels, is a well-rounded addition to this popular neighbourhood strip.

Related review: This cinnamon scroll shop in Caulfield South is your new reason to get up in the morning