I’m a little overjoyed and a bit heartbroken about the reborn Glebe Hotel. Not that long ago it was the Australian Youth Hotel and my local watering hole. I’ve moved on now and the pub has, too, and I’m envious of the locals. We all want a great pub with stellar food within stone’s throw of our door and with The Stables Bar & Grill The Glebe Hotel is delivering just that.

The gracious Victorian hotel was built in 1862 and the refurbishment brings it into the modern era while highlighting its historical features. The clever design by Alexander & Co lets the building speak of its past with exposed brick and high ceilings revealing the rafters and a mezzanine over the dining room, which was the hotel’s stables. Natural light streams in from the courtyard that offers alfresco dining under a beautiful fig tree. The restaurant proper is anchored by a cute little bar with a sprawling drinks list serviced by enthusiastic – if a bit green – waitstaff and bolstered by some of the best renditions of pub grub I’ve encountered.

British chef Ben Allcock displays solid technique and restraint on the plate. The result is marvellous eating and at a great price. The Cloudy Bay clams, for instance, tossed with smoked bacon, cider, thyme and shallots is lick-the-bowl-clean territory. Luckily it’s served with toasted sourdough to mop it up. Pub classic salt and pepper squid pleasingly comes with a twist of chilli and black lime salt and a citrus mayonnaise, while large pillows of gnocchi warm the cockles with roast pumpkin and goat’s curd. Along with burgers and fish of the day, there’s an array of steaks on offer – ours a rich, juicy medium-rare wagyu rump cap topped with Café de Paris butter from a choice of sauces. It’s really good.

The Glebe Hotel may well have a long history as a watering hole, but with The Stables Bar & Grill it’s set to carve out a new one for benchmark Australian pub grub.