Whimsical it may be, but Dinner by British chef Heston Blumenthal – who loves mining culinary history, both British and Australian, for inspiration to create defiantly modern dishes and drinks that stir the senses and rouse food memories – executes its brief with considerable flair. Waitstaff glide around the room, striking that perfect balance between casual and attentive, while Melbourne’s biggest kitchen brigade, visible through glass, punch out dishes with heads-down discipline.

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