Ever since the Brisbane iteration of this Gold Coast favourite opened its elegant doors in the new, architectural showpiece that is the Calile Hotel on James St, it has been going gangbusters. The combination of simple, yet perfectly cooked Greek fare wrought from the best ingredients, an attractive room with a softly lit dome as its centrepiece, as well as service that is both warm and efficient, has led to tables being in hot demand.

From the complimentary tasting glasses of well-seasoned and deeply flavoured fish and lemon soup, a meal there is memorable. There’s a daily changing array of fresh fish and crustaceans, which might yield a King George whiting simply grilled, seasoned and scattered with a fine shower of oregano and fried capers and accessorised with a couple of wedges of lemon. Team it with a Greek salad of the freshest vegetables topped with a slab of herb-scattered feta, but don’t miss the zucchini chips. Thin, oblong slices are battered, fried to crisp and sprinkled with finely grated kefalogravieria cheese. Fabulous.  Kritharaki, orzo pasta with spanner crab and a couple of chunks of prawns, is also terrific.

Desserts are well-fashioned renditions of traditional favourites: the bougatsa, for example, is a warm, crisp filo bundle filled with custard and lemon syrup.

Must-eat dish: Zucchini chips