Who would’ve thought that a $50 million winery-cum-modern sculpture park would be Victoria’s most accessible, most exciting, most welcoming and yes, most delicious, venue?

But such is the decades-long vision philanthropists Pauline and John Gandel had for Pt Leo Estate, brought to laser-focused realisation by some of the very best in the game on both sides of the pass.

From the sweeping, dramatic entry of the Jolson-designed building to the sweeping, dramatic views across the vines and sculptures to Western Port beyond, Pt Leo is a carefully considered wine-dine good time that has every sense covered.

There’s an extensive cellar door where you can taste wines from the 50 acres of estate vines, and all that art to explore with glass in hand, but beforehand there’s so much good food to eat, whether in the bustling 110-seat restaurant or in the quieter, more refined 45-seater called Laura.

Phil Wood, one of Sydney’s brightest young chefs, moved south and here down at the peninsula he’s shining a bright light on the best of its produce.

You can make an occasion of it by dining at Laura, where an elegantly concise, innovatively refined (and accessibly priced) four-to-six course celebration of the region is served. Here you’ll find eye-openingly good Lion’s Mane mushrooms “glazed like a chicken wing”, a curry-sauced fish pie cleverly brightened with mint, and lavender-and-honey glazed duck served Sunday roast-style in the centre of the table with roasted parsnip and grapes.

But for easy, roll-up-your-sleeves, lick-your-fingers fun, the main restaurant is our favourite to return to. It’s where a wood-roasted crumpet comes topped with drunken chicken so good you’ll be ordering another after one bite, and a vibrant carrot soufflé cloud comes dressed with arresting scampi roe.

There are wallaby pies and fried mussel sandwiches and a pretty beetroot pancake that eats as well as it Instagrams.

Seafood is a highlight – a perfect piece of local snapper wood-roasted and served with fennel cream is one of the fish dishes of the year.

An all-Victorian wine list at Pt Leo Restaurant continues the celebration, or you can look to Laura’s local labels, augmented by the 600-strong world cellar. Stem and tableware are as elegant as the playlist is sharp, with a well-drilled team keeping the jumping venue pumping with switched-on service that comes with both a twinkle in the eye and a spring in the step.

It makes the whole package unbeatable. Pt Leo is simply outstanding, and is easily – definitively – Victoria’s most exciting dining destination. The art of dining, reimagined, Pt Leo is a roaring success.

Must eat dish: Wood-roasted snapper, Hawkes Farm braised broccoli, fennel cream