Josh Niland is the golden child, the angel of seafood, insanely talented and so damn nice. It’s impossible not to be in awe of his achievements. And even as he tests the waters of what’s possible with Australia’s best seafood, Saint Peter’s chef and owner not only keeps things stunningly simple and ego-free on the plate, he doesn’t let all the attention get to him either. His humble little Paddington eatery – together with his wife Julie Niland he’s opened Fish Butchery down the road, too – is one of the city’s most important to open in the last few years because it epitomises how Australians love to eat. That is, casual, comfortable with the warm rumble of a busy wine bar/bistro. Plus it’s the most spectacular celebration of the best seafood in the world – ours!

Sure, Saint Peter is tiny, and it’s all a bit elbow to elbow, but grab a chair for brunch, lunch or dinner and you’ll be enjoying an underutilised species of seafood before you can say “Southern calamari”. Start with oysters – Moonlight Kiss rocks, petit clair or Franklin Harbour Pacifics – and while you’re at it add some Shark Bay scampi caviar to the top of them. Coffs Harbour snapper makes the ‘sausage’ in the sausage and egg English muffin. Raw 21-day dry-aged Mooloolaba albacore is diced and served like steak tartare with all the condiments, while Port Lincoln Pallidus octopus arrives draped over its sweet and sour sauce.

Mirror Dory from Bermagui makes for a stunning battered fish ’n’ chips with the best tartar we’ve ever tasted, Port Lincoln King George whiting is served like a traditional Kiev, and line-caught Evan’s Head hapuka lands on deck with the earthiness of pine mushrooms.

Saint Peter is not only changing the conversation of seafood down under, it’s starting a whole new one. Just make sure you order the lemon tart before you swim on home.

Must-eat dish: Coffs Harbour snapper sausage & egg English muffin