Eyebrows are often raised when something isn’t easily put into a box. It’s human nature to label something to not only understand it better, but help explain it to other parties, too. But Gauge, from the team behind Sourced, doesn’t fit into any box. In one breath it’s a serious cafe, the next a leader in the new wave of restaurant dining. It’s polarised some, but pleased so many more.

Perhaps it’s the casual cafe setting of this quaint diner, the wine bar whimsy and laidback demeanour of the floorstaff, but the casual surrounds play tricks on your mind as to the nature of this wonderful addition to Brisbane dining where select produce is supported by strong technique and spot-on palates.

The food is far too good to label ‘cafe’, and to do so seems an injustice. By day it’s next-level everyday food – think Spanish mackerel, soft egg and sabayon, or heritage bacon sangas with housemade barbecue sauce – but the deg-only night menu is a complete knock-out. Eggplant adds depth to silken almond tofu. Warrigal greens and mustard complete slow-cooked lamb neck. Buffalo ricotta delivers deep satisfaction to spiced shortbread and salted meringue. It may not be everyone’s vision of ‘restaurant’ dining, but it’s confidence and commitment to produce is undeniably fulfilling in its final form.

Must-eat dish: Spanner crab, chestnut, pomelo