The entry next to a loading dock in a gritty Fortitude Valley cul-de-sac is obscure but that hasn’t stopped diners flocking to the city’s darkest dining room to enjoy the Japanese-Australian mash-up menu, expansive drinks list and pumping soundtrack. Chandeliers light the all-black décor and the overall effect is elegant, intimate and appealing.

The 70-seater is owned by the team behind Valley pan-Asian venue Longtime and the focus is similarly on communal tables and shared dishes. The menu includes a raw bar offering of appealing creations such as yellowtail sashimi topped with small balls of avocado cream, a scattering of puffed rice and a yuzu nahm jim dressing and Honto drumsticks, delicious savoury ice cream cones filled with diced and dressed raw tuna and avocado.

The “sando”; lobster schnitzel, salted cabbage and dill slaw in a soft, white bread club sandwich is in hot demand for good reason. Larger plates include whole snapper karaage with sweet and sour cucumber and papaya pickles and wagyu beef in yakiniku sauce –  both are appealing.

Desserts are fine (there are only two and it’s a chocolate versus strawberry choice) but don’t match the heights of the rest of the menu. There’s a separate bar where diners awaiting a seat can sample a drinks repertoire that runs from cocktails laced with Japanese ingredients, more than 130 wines, sake by the glass and enormous array of spirits including dozens of Japanese whiskies.

Must-eat dish: Lobster katsu sando