All aboard the good ship Calombaris. Actually, make that luxury liner.

Leather booths and high-shine embellishments dial up the opulence favoured by Greek shipping magnates at his intimate den of just 38 seats.

It’s manned by slick staff keen to open your account with something from the cocktail trolley. Choose from a minimum of four dishes at night: perhaps perfectly cooked John Dory with an intense shiitake ketchup or a yielding mussel swimming in dill-flecked avgolemono. Later, dispense with the box of cutlery at your table to unpeg petit fours — “lamington” slices and marshmallows — from a fun-size Hills hoist.

Whether it’s mod-Oz cuisine with Greek overtures or Greek food for Aussie palates matters not a jot. This fine diner has evolved into a well-rounded, accessible package with food that’s plain lick-the-plate tasty.

A world-wise though Greek-leaning wine list, fine Zalto stemware, monogrammed linen and a bopping soundtrack from The Beatles to Bon Jovi adds to the appeal.

Must eat dish: lamb with parsnip and sheep’s curd