After taking over from former executive chef and co-owner Alejandro Cancino earlier this year, incoming Michelin-trained, Brisbane-bred chef Andrew Gunn has subtly but confidently put his mark on the Brisbane fine dining institution. Alongside fiancée and head chef Amelie Rabaud, Gunn has reimagined the restaurant’s five and seven-course omnivore and herbivore offerings harnessing his background in France’s two Michelin-starred Le Taillevent and three Michelin-starred Le Cinq. amplifying the use of European technique to create a globally inspired menu as diverse as it is delicious.

Take zucchini three ways – its flesh spiralled, its stem battered and deep fried and its flower stuffed with vegan cheese which melts into a sublimely delicate tomato consomme. Or perhaps a red lentil dahl, its texture aerated against crisp disks of roti and an ethereal herb salad. Wagyu is handled with expert care and attention, ensuring its aching tenderness, alongside almost foam-like bernaise.

It’s considered, thoughtful cooking enhanced by an extensive drinks list.

Must eat dish: Zucchini flower