And while the word “institution” tends to be overused, we’re more than happy to make an exception for this matchbox-sized Paddington favourite that proves good things come in small packages.

The ever-exciting wine list spans mainly French drops from Burgundy, Jura and the Loire, backed up with a contingent from Italy and some locals closer to home.

Then there’s the one-page menu from head chef Frank Guest, who follows in the footsteps of some serious 10 William St alumni, with a slightly pared-back departure from previous iterations. But before you panic, the pretzel remains as good as ever and is still best served dunked into the salty whipped bottarga.

Dispatched from the tiny kitchen are plates of salumi, followed by fresh tagliatelle ribbons swimming in a rich duck ragu and orecchiette tossed in a broccoli pesto and adorned with a dusting of pangrattato. Sealing the deal is the tiramisu with its decadent, egg-yolk-rich zabaglione. Sit at the bar for a piece of the action or nab the table by the window – either way, you’ll be back.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.