With exposed brick walls, bentwood chairs and wooden floors, Pearl feels like a European bistro, and it serves food to match from a small menu focussing on wholesome, seasonal ingredients.

It is hearty fare designed to be paired with wine and the list, while not extensive, is reasonably priced and has an adequate selection of popular varieties by the glass. Small share plates are artfully presented and generous in size, including the likes of kingfish ceviche, mushroom arancini and Italian bread stew, ribolitta. The pan-fried scallops are the standout, arranged between wedges of tender-centred roasted artichoke with textured crisp ends, all sitting in a rich lemony, sunchoke puree.

Then there is the faithful coupling of grilled pear and melted bleu d’auvergne with pops of mustard, candied cherries and orange, sprinkled with crunchy buckwheat. The best of the mains is the slow-braised beef cheeks, in a rich red wine gravy mopped up with buttery smooth mashed kumara and pan-cooked cavolo nero. The salmon has crisp fried skin, and comes with tender wedges of boiled kipfler potatoes, and lightly steamed kale in a light oyster cream.

To wrap things up, there’s cheese or four desserts. Sitting atop a perfectly executed classic crème brulee is a teeth-achingly sweet chocolate covered pistachio praline. Service is usually top-notch but new staff require a little more support to make the experience seamless. Still, this cosy, low-lit bistro is an ideal choice on date night, or for an intimate dinner party in its private dining room upstairs. It’s also open for breakfast and lunch.

Must-eat dish: Slow braised Toowoomba beef cheek