But the Gina Lollobrigida glam – all velvet banquettes and Venetian candleabra – is softened these days by engaging floor staff and approachable dishes that err on the side of informal. Rosetta’s hearty osso buco with braised veal shin and cipollini onions speaks of hearth and home, while a wood-fired pork chop with confit garlic and sage jus is Tuscan rustic.

The menu is skewing more to seafood, too, and Neil Perry’s connections to premium Victorian suppliers are netting real treasures. Squid comes hot and charry off the grill with fennel, whole baby snapper is baked with oregano and thyme, and bay scallops – on the half shell – are crunchy with pangrattato.

From a big slate of pasta, we revelled in Sardinian fregola tossed about with chilli-flecked pippies. Rosetta’s mostly Italian wine list is hefty in every sense, but if a single glass is all you require, smartly attired staffers are ready to help.

Must eat dish: Fregola sarda with pippies, chilli and garlic