Brisbane’s first family of seafood have switched to high-end beef with staggering success. The new Black Hide at Treasury Brisbane casino offers industrial-strength beef in a sophisticated setting. Three handsomely decorated rooms offer views to the Brisbane River and South Bank.

There is a cowhide print carpet, and large butchers’ knives on the door handles.The service is warm and accommodating.

The beef menu is powered by Stanbroke Pastoral Company, whose 1200g Angus tomahawk (feeds three) was named beef steak of the year, outscoring the highfalutin wagyu beef chased by the great chefs from Asia to the USA. The tomahawk is richly flavoured with a herbal juiciness that lingers on the palate like an aged cabernet sauvignon.

Try also the dry-aged rib eye, T-bones, sirloin, rib on the bone and eye fillets. Or feast on Italian meatballs or house-made bangers, served with sides of steamed vegetables, sauteed mushrooms and lentils.

Start with oysters. Finish with rhubarb brulee or sticky caramelised apple with quince and creme fraiche ice cream.

The wine list is replete with everything from Grand Cru Burgundies to local heroes.

Must-eat dish: The tomahawk