The Grampians have never looked better from Dunkeld’s Royal Mail Hotel. It’s new, ravishingly beautiful fine dining room – rebadged as Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel – now has the view to complement Robin Wickens’ exciting, seasonally attuned food and a cellar of worldly wines curated by sommelier Matthew Lance.

What hasn’t changed is Wickens’ devotion to homegrown produce. The leek and pine mushrooms with your salt fish brandade come from the Royal Mail’s vast kitchen garden. Same goes for those mustard greens and turnips with the local lamb, the Brussels sprouts and chestnuts with red deer, the parsnips with steamed whiting.

Five- and eight-course menus are offered, matched if you wish with exceptional drops on display in the walk-in wine room, but Wickens, whose accomplished cooking seems more spontaneous than ever, sends out loads of unlisted extras.

A very fine stinging nettle custard on scrambled egg to begin, amazing vegetable jellies to finish. The generosity shines through.

Add assured, intuitive service and a sublime setting – especially at dusk – and you have a Royal Mail experience that really delivers.

Must-eat dish: Steamed King George whiting, parsnip, kohlrabi juice