Oysters are offered with a Ruinart mignonette poured at the table; there are four varieties of caviar and the snacks selection includes a devilled quail egg with caviar or foie gras on sushi rice. Since its opening earlier this year the signature dish has quickly become the rock lobster bolognese, a stunning dish of handmade pasta with a hint of saffron, entwined with a coating of a ragout, the recipe for which includes smoked lobster shells.

The house-made bread is exceptional. Main courses include luscious grilled Patagonian toothfish with burnt miso, and a 400g Darling Downs dry aged wagyu sirloin (marble score 9-plus) “Kiwami” for two that costs $240. Spiced cake with pineapple and milk sorbet ($16) is a small, elegant dessert, better than the coconut and white chocolate ($16) but neither had the wow factor you might expect after the blingy earlier courses.

Service varies but is largely attentive as staff whiz around the blue-green-toned dining room which is a mix of plush velvet banquettes, marble walls, a massive chandelier and swirling patterned carpets. Views are best from the pool deck outside.

Must-eat dish: Rock lobster bolognese