Since finding a new home on Holt Street, Porteño has blossomed into quite a beauty. Sure we all fell in love with its former site, but the new Porteño is a sleek, grown-up version that hasn’t lost any of its energetic and vibrant enthusiasm.

With flames licking flesh on the asado and parilla at its core, Porteño is no longer just the fleshfest it became famous for. A swag of stellar seafood and vegetarian dishes have taken pride of place on the menu. This Argentinian-inspired restaurant epitomises the art of casual dining without cutting corners, delivering great food, cracking booze and a riotous time – with a certain professional panache.

With black-and-white chequered flooring, the odd lazy Susan, a private dining room, walk-in wine room and a bar you can dine at, Porteño has all occasions covered. Joe Valore’s wine list covers South America, Europe and Australia, while in the kitchen with Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz there’s something more considered going on with the food – more complete dishes that put Argentina on a plate like never before.

Leek and cucumber partner marinated Kinkawooka mussels, eggplant escabeche and white beans underpin braised and grilled Cape Grim Beef tongue. The homely woodfired cauliflower and fontina dumplings are a must, while roasted peppers and chimichurri add zing and freshness to rich wagyu skirt steak. But, as always, don’t miss out on the woodfired suckling pig cooked on the asador – now served with pineapple, tomato and habanero salsa.

Must-eat dish: Woodfired Berkshire pork with pineapple, tomato & habanero salsa