Pig’s face. Wattleseed. Quandong and Davidson plum. Since April last year the husband-and-wife duo of Kirstyn and Ryan Sessions has been charged with steering the long-lauded restaurant in Port Fairy’s historic Seacombe House. But now at Fen you’ll find a modern celebration of native bounty that includes those seeds, succulents and more. So a single confit kipfler potato might come crowned with crisp saltbush in a sauce of roe and succulents plucked from the shore, while local whiting served in a roast chicken jus with bursts of finger lime is as inspired as it is lick-the-bowl good. Paperbark turns up as a velvety ice cream, while an opening act of crab served under a dusting of macadamia and a puckeringly sharp Davidson plum shows Ryan’s keen judgement in balance and harmony.

The great wine list teams lesser-known grapes from a younger generation of makers forging their own path with old local masters paid due respect, all priced for taking a punt.

Fen is a jewel of regional dining that’s celebrating the land in a way that’s respectful and fun and — importantly — definitely delicious.

Must eat dish: abalone, smoked eel