Behind the ghostly gauze curtains of a small converted shopfront on a quiet residential street where the docks rumble in the background, you’ll find Navi, Melbourne’s newest destination fine diner.

This diminutive 25-seater is the handsomely spot-lit theatre for chef Julian Hills – who previously impressed at the peninsula’s Paringa Estate – who is putting on a confident show that’s a contemporary celebration of Australia.

Across eight courses on an artful procession of hand-crafted ceramics (by Hills himself), you might find wallaby tartare wrapped in salted yolk and capers and bush tomato served in a tiny tart, before butter-poached marron cleverly sauced in a shellfish caramel and Murray Cod tartare perfectly seasoned with finger lime and horseradish-spiked buttermilk.

It’s approachable, elegant fare that is technically dexterous yet never forgets to be delicious – see Macedon duck served on salted plum with a savoury duck custard on the side – or to have fun, such as a blue cheese-take on an old-school jelly slice.

Matched drinks, if you so choose, are as equally clever as the food, or select from wines on the tight, local-leaning list, obviously chosen with care.

While Navi – which means ‘local’ in the Cherokee language of Hills’ father – is a win for the west, its charms are so persuasive, the cooking so deft, the vision so clear, it’s worth seeking out from afar.

Go west.

Must eat dish: Duck in two parts