Traditionally, Italian wine bars, or enotecas, were places to stop for a drink on the way to somewhere else for a meal. Happily, this rustic establishment in the heritage-listed Taylor-Heaslop building (circa 1889) borrows from the modern interpretation, where food is part of the offering. Cacio e Pepe – spaghetti with pecorino cheese and black pepper – is as good as any in Rome (where the dish originated), according to the Italian waiter.

The generous tangle of al dente pasta is silky and indulgently creamy, and a salad of mixed leaves, pine nut and apple cuts through the richness. Ricciola – kingfish, saffron mayo and pomegranate – is exceptionally pretty, the marinated fish supremely fresh and enlivened by tart fruit seeds. Gently fried zucchini flowers come generously stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies in another faithful execution of a Roman classic, fiori di zucca.

The timing is perfect between courses, with saltimbocca alla Romana – veal edged with prosciutto and scattered with fried sage and broccolini – headlining the Secondi, which also includes a luscious risotto of mushroom and truffled pecorino.

Wines are thoughtfully selected, with an emphasis on boutique producers, and the list is extensive, even by the glass.

A sweet ending comes via tortino, a dense chocolate and hazelnut cake, with marsala, orange and tangy mascarpone sorbet.

The quality of service is remarkable in a Queensland context, but thoroughly and professionally Italian.

Must-eat dish: Cacio e Pepe