For more than two decades Matteo’s has held court over the “quiet” end of Brunswick St; a study in draped elegance, old world charm and the fundamentals of hospitality chiselled from a time when restaurateurs ruled and customers came first.

But that’s not to say Matteo’s is old. Quite the opposite. With a new chef at the helm — Buddha Lo — Matteo Pignatelli has given his eponymous restaurant life anew.

The broad French-Japanese of years past has been updated with a keener Asian focus, where such dishes as General Tso’s fried quail — a generous and cheeky take on san choy bao — and a brilliant prawn laksa ravioli are the opening acts for crisp-roasted duck served with duck neck sausage, say, or blushingly pink lamb teamed with miso-spiked eggplant.

That dessert might feature corn flake ice cream shows the kitchen’s youthful humour; that the wine list is one of best — and best value — found in the state shows experience and smarts gleaned over the years. Matteo’s has long been the complete package; it now comes with even more delicious.

Must eat dish: General Tso’s fried quail