Youth might be wasted on the young, but go along for the ride at O.MY, the impressive no-waste hero redefining farm fresh. Five years ago, the three 20-something Bertoncello brothers opened their degustation-only restaurant in an old butchers shop on the urban fringe, and although only two remain – sommelier Chayse and Blayne in the kitchen – this 25-seater continues its ascent.

Dishes are inspired by fresh produce from the family farm in nearby Cardinia. The quality shines front and centre across 12 to 20 original, technique-driven and sustainably produced courses, each a true garden-to-table delight.

The opening flurry of snacks (tomato tarts, sourdough tea, pickled veg among them) soon fills the table, explained with pride by the charming, easy-going crew. Later, there’s a memorable slab of crusty sourdough, with cultured butter and a waistline-expanding but nevertheless compelling beef-fat butter like 2018’s version of dripping. The procession continues with three radishes, their leaves fried and shattery, ready to swipe through a thick lick of apple tapenade, and strands of turnip fettucine luscious with chicken fat and rich jus.

Each course manages to be surprising yet comforting, enlivened with well-priced local spirits, worldly wines or house-made kombucha.

Seasonally attuned, tastebud aligned and planet-loving to boot, this little powerhouse is a forward-thinking force of nature.

Must eat dish: Pumpkin pasta