A few years ago Automata drove into town at just the right time. As diners were tiring of (and from) all-night fine dining degustations, the sleek, contemporary crusader helped bridge the gap between special night out and smart casual dinner with a cracking five-course feed in comfortable surrounds.

Not much has changed in that regard – the long communal tables, both on ground level and the mezzanine, bring all diners together, and the eclectic adds to the ambience – but the food and wine offering just seems to get better and better with age.

Former Quay chef Sarah Knights and owner/executive chef Clayton Wells have now combined to broaden the gastronomic scope while maintaining the mantra of simplicity, stellar produce, stunning technique and, most importantly, big grin-inducing flavours.

The kingfish dish, sums up Automata quite nicely. Cured in kombu, thick slices of sashimi are layered in a rich, green seaweed broth dotted with the earthly kick of wasabi oil. It’s not only aesthetically stunning, it’s a sheer joy to eat. A delicate dory roe emulsion helps bind the fresh spikes of romanesco and sour cucumber, then soft, blushing red quail breast, served with eggplant puree, grilled radicchio and black sticky rice crisps, will have you enjoying the tiny tweeties in an entirely new light.

Then black pepper ice cream works wonders with custard apple and Granny Smith. With food of this class, a hell of an adventurous, affordable and downright enjoyable booze list by Tim Watkins, and the spirited energy of the front of house led by Abby Meinke, you have one of the finest examples of what it means to dine down under in 2018.

Must eat dish: Cured kingfish, green garlic, seaweed broth, wasabi oil