It’s been a couple of years since Jacques Reymond’s sous chefs Hayden McFarland and Thomas Woods took the keys to the grand manor on Williams Rd and in that time have firmly — and definitively — set out their vision of dining that pays heed to both the contemporary (one of the strongest vegetarian games in town) and the timeless (one of the grandest collections of grand cru burgundy).

That vision plays out across the multi-course meal that favours technique over tricks, where such dishes as a deeply alluring kangaroo tail broth in which abalone and sea cucumber swim, or the hot-cold dichotomy of scallop ceviche served with warmed spanner crab, show mature restraint in their creation. Power — pan-fried sardines served with soured cream and pistachio, say — is tempered with passion — a bowl of cavatelli pasta tossed through sweetbreads — but the overriding sense eating here is of generous satisfaction. Add in the supremely comfortable space that looks as good as ever and staff as good as they get — and a fancy Coravin that’s helping to open up the extensive cellar — and Woodland House truly is a timeless classic anew.

Must eat dish: roasted sardines with soured cream