Philippe Mouchel has long been giving this city lessons in French, but his eponymous basement bistro feels as fresh as ever.

Everything is correct and proper, but never stuffy or stiff, largely thanks to a pro front-of-house team who work the room with care and flair. And then there’s the man himself, ever present at the pass, finessing each plate as it leaves the kitchen.

Stick to the script with Mouchel classics like his rightfully famous rotisserie chook, Bannockburn bird with succulent flesh under crispy, mushroom-stuffed skin.

But go ‘off-piste’ and be just as content. France’s version of thin-crust pizza, tarte flambee, is topped with outrageously smoky bacon and soft onion for a sensational starter, while the Mayura Station wagyu is expertly cooked and rested, its charry crust and blushing inner spot on. Pair it with a side of oozy macaroni cheese heady with nutmeg, and regret nothing.

In a rush? Oysters and bubbles at the bar is a delightful, as is the rich gooey-hearted choc fondant with pear sorbet.

So Frenchy, so chic, and so very good.

Must-eat dish: Tarte flambee