Revolutions are not necessarily the anarchic activities we tend to envisage. They can even be about re-focusing our attention on a latent cuisine.

Take Greek food. Given that we have a long history of Greek migration, you might presume there would be more critically acclaimed eateries.

Only recently has Mediterranean fare been making waves. Venues including Alpha, The Apollo and Barzaari, a Greek- Cypriot contender, have re-invigorated our appetite for modernised Greek.

1821, which sits among the bustle of Pitt St, is a grand affair spanning three levels and a red-and-white palette.

Much of the dramatic interior was designed and built in Athens. A Greek flag is plastered over exposed bricks on one wall, horses jut from the wall above the entrance and a small island bar serves a bevy of Greek booze.

This is the domain of chef David Tsirekas, known for Perama and Xanthi. Here, his food is a mix of simple classics and elevated Mediterranean dishes.

Emblematic of the latter approach is the pork belly baklava. The pork is cooked beautifully, but the pastry makes the dish too rich. It should be served with a defibrillator rather than the mastic and date sauce.

Sesame-crusted haloumi, another tweak on a classic, is served with confit cherry tomato. The cheese itself is a bit underwhelming, though hot quince syrup is a lovely touch.

Classic moussaka, from a 1910 recipe, is the apex of comfort food. A thick bechamel tops braised lamb, eggplant and potato gratin, though the cinnamon might be over-powering for some. Also noteworthy is the whole-baked scorpionfish, served with a simple herb and onion salad.

The classics tend to outshine the avant-garde dishes, but 1821 is an invigorating night out.