36. 1889 Enoteca, Woolloongabba, Brisbane review

1889 Enoteca
1889 Enoteca

This is an eatery where love stories are written – the romantic Woolloongabba setting models its menu and decor on the trattorias of Rome’s cobblestoned suburb Trastevere.

Cosy booths, exposed brick walls, wooden floors and intimate lighting all add to the charm. Even midweek, it can be full of lovebirds holding hands, being serenaded with Italian ballads. It could be cheesy, but instead feels as authentic as the food and wine.

The carciofo alla judia features a whole artichoke heart fried until petals are delicate and crisp, sitting atop whipped lemon mascarpone and a scatter of gremolata. Battered zucchini flowers have an almost meaty texture with an anchovy and mozzarella filling.

The cacio e pepe pasta proves the rule of three reigns supreme. Freshly-made spaghetti, perfectly cooked is stirred through a two-year aged pecorino Romano sauce, with black pepper. The coda alla vaccinara is a fairly common Roman dish, but rarely seen on an Australian menu. Pieces of tender oxtail are served with a rich broth, slices of baby zucchini, black cabbage and white bean.

A dessert of lemon tart punches with flavour, but doesn’t quite reach the heights of the pasta. What does linger is the wine. The almost exclusively Italian list is extensive and all carefully chosen from small vineyards with a focus on wines made with natural yeasts, and grapes grown biodynamically or with no pesticides. Glasses are poured at the table and knowledgeable staff help you choose the right one.

Most of the waiters are Italian and their relaxed, friendly service is without fault.

Must-eat dish: Cacio e pepe
Instagram: @1889enoteca

10-12 Logan Rd Woolloongabba QLD 4102

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