With its cruise-liner lines, sharp and sharply-attired staff and a true sense of Hellenic hospitality, George Calmobaris’s Athenian-inspired glamour den remains a rosemary-and-ouzo tinged breath of fresh air at the pointy end of Melbourne’s dining scene. Twelve years on and The Press Club is as good – if not better – than ever, delivering a procession of Hellenic hits as seen through a distinctly Melbourne prism.

Snacks to begin include a brilliant avgolemno (lemon chicken soup) and snow white tarama in which to dunk salt and vinegar-dusted loukoumades. It’s a great start to a meal that just gets better.

Smoky eggplant roasted in ash and vine is unfurled at the table and teamed with wallaby tartare for a terrific take on a traditional kleftiko. A rich lentil stew served with perfect translucent Robe octopus with kaffir and finger lime is innovative, alluring and comforting, while a stifado (stew) of goat, deeply soft and rich, comes with the inspired addition of goat’s curd for sharp creaminess.

Spot-on wine matches that team Hellenic interest (Santorini assyrtiko, Cehphalonia robola) with local heroes (Mornington pinot, Barossa grenache) are both educative and delicious.

A sense of theatre and fun – see backgammon petit fours – and The Press Club is unlike any other fine-diner in town.

Must-eat dish: Barossa Valley kid stifado, onion, asparagus