On this visit, chef Paul Carmichael is nowhere to be seen. Instead, Momofuku Seiōbo’s open kitchen is populated by a reassuringly even split of female and male chefs, who, with no sign of their impressive leader, work diligently at their stations. There’s disappointment: will the food be as good without Carmichael on the pass?

The first course dispels any doubt. Mofongo, a Caribbean dish of garlic-mashed plantains, is elegantly interpreted through a roasted garlic puree, crisp fried plantain and crunchy pork crackling served with a restorative roasted pork broth on the side. A diversion from the oft-delivered palate-cleansing starter, with tongue-dancing, lingering flavour, it’s fantastic.

Corn and okra is Carmichael’s take on cou cou, the national dish of Barbados. A nod to the West African influences of Caribbean food, Carmichael takes it a step further by serving the creamy polenta with a lick of bay oil, a generous scoop of Sterling caviar replacing the more traditional flying-fish roe.

There’s a break as a chef presents two live WA marron; the blue-red-tinged crustaceans destined to headline the nine savoury courses. As expected with a Carribean menu, the dishes take inspiration from Spanish, African and Creole cuisines, faultlessly executed using cleverly treated Australian produce, such as in turmeric-flecked sandwich of crispy cassava stuffed with Moreton Island sand crab and a showering of Manjimap truffle. Carmichael may not be in the kitchen, but his direction is palpable.

A creative beverage pairing is on offer, but a bottle of wine from the list will serve you just as well; the honey and apricot characteristics of a 2008 Loire Valley demi-sec Vouvray keenly enhanced by the natural salts and textures of the menu. Carmichael arrives as the desserts roll out and, while his presence is unmissable, service continues without falter, the bold flavours delivered with confidence and panache.

Must eat dish: Marron with coconut bakes