It’s not open very often, and not easy to get into, but Urbane is Brisbane’s true contender to Esquire’s mantle as top diner – though the aesthetic and experience couldn’t be more different. Part of The Urbane Group (The Euro, The Laneway), Urbane is the brainchild of Argentinian chef Alejandro Cancino and restaurant manager Andrew Buchanan, who together deliver a welcome respite for those that choose to live a meat-free existence.

Caramel-brown floors, double-white-clothed tables and a pervading serene, tranquil atmosphere provide the canvas for the beautiful brushstrokes on your choice of either a herbivore or omnivore tasting menu – though even the omnivore menu is not as carnivorous as one may expect.

An inspiring, engaging, global wine list is as hard to pigeonhole as the progressive prowess of Cancino’s food, other than to say he relies on global influences – whether that be technique, ingredient or combinations given extreme refinement and a deft touch. Jamon and anchovy help celebrate new-season tomato. Burnt broccoli gets a sweet embrace from black garlic. Broad beans benefit from the nuttiness of buckwheat. Cardamom adds aromatics to persimmon. Stunning.

Must-eat dish: Wagyu, celeriac, juniper.